Long before Whangārei spread across the valley below, Parihaka stood here as an active volcano rising from the landscape. Today it is cloaked in native bush, but beneath the forest lies a story that stretches back centuries. Once reputedly the largest pā in Aotearoa, New Zealand, Parihaka was home to generations of Māori who lived, worked and grew food on these slopes. Kūmara gardens covered the surrounding hillsides. Warriors stood watch from the ridgelines. Families raised children here. Trade, ceremony, celebration and conflict all unfolded on this mountain.
The remnants of that history remain remarkably visible today. Three pā sites, housing terraces, storage pits and defensive earthworks are still etched into the landscape, transforming what might otherwise be a beautiful walk into something far more compelling. Parihaka is not simply a mountain. It is a place where geology, ecology, culture and history intersect.
Frankie and I made the climb on a cool autumn morning. The weather couldn't have been better. Low cloud drifted through the canopy, pockets of mist hung in the bush and the entire mountain felt wrapped in shades of green. The track climbs steadily through native forest, weaving between towering trees, such as kauri, totara and rimu, giant ponga ferns, and moss-covered trunks. Every now and then the cloud would thin and offer a glimpse of the landscape beyond before closing in again.
One of the things I love most about walking in native bush is how quickly it recalibrates the senses. The noise drops away. Your breathing slows. You begin noticing things that would normally pass you by; the call of a tūī, the texture of bark, the scent of damp earth after rain. There is something deeply regulating about moving through a forest at walking pace.
The first summit brings you to the historic pā site, and for us it was impossible not to stop. Looking out across the surrounding ranges, it became easy to understand why this mountain was such an important place. The views are extraordinary, but it was the evidence of what once stood here that captured my attention. The terraces, storage pits and earthworks remain visible, offering a glimpse into the scale of what was once a thriving settlement. Standing there, I found myself imagining the kūmara gardens that once covered the hillsides, the fires burning at dusk and the generations of Māori who shaped and cared for this landscape.
From the pā site, the track follows the ridgeline towards the main summit, tracing the spine of the ancient volcano through beautiful native bush. This was my favourite part of the walk. The ridge rises and falls gently, the forest opening occasionally to reveal sweeping views before drawing you back beneath the canopy. The mist moved constantly across the mountain that day, creating a landscape that felt wild, moody and alive.
By the time we reached the summit, Whangārei stretched out below us, framed by rolling hills and distant mountain ranges fading into the horizon. We sat for a while, mixed up a couple of Live Wild drinks and unpacked our snacks while taking in the view.
At one point Frankie turned around and looked back down the mountain.
"Wow," she said.
"I did that."
There was no need to add anything. The look on her face said it all.
One of the things I have come to appreciate about getting out into the wild with my children is that nature creates opportunities for confidence to emerge naturally. No lectures. No life lessons. Just experience. A mountain climbed. A challenge met. A quiet sense of accomplishment earned.
The descent was one of those moments that reminds me why I love the outdoors so much. With plenty of energy left, we raced / jogged sections of the track back down through the bush, laughing, weaving through the trees and arriving at the bottom with that familiar feeling that seems to follow a good day outside. Clear-headed. Energised. Grounded. The kind of feeling that no screen, shop or distraction can replicate.
As always, good snacks played an important role. We packed fresh fruit, dark chocolate, salty oven-baked pretzels, Odi snacks, water and a couple of Live Wild blends. Great snacks don't just fuel the climb; they become part of the ritual. A reason to stop, sit for a while and fully appreciate where you are.
Parihaka is one of those rare walks that offers far more than exercise. It is a chance to move through beautiful native bush, stand on an ancient volcano, explore one of the most significant historic pā sites in New Zealand and see Northland from a completely different perspective. For us, it was the perfect half-day adventure, and one we'll undoubtedly return to.
Trail Notes
Location: Whangārei, Northland. North Island, New Zealand.
Time to Summit: Approximately 45–60 minutes
Difficulty: Moderate
Return Time: Approximately 1.5–2.5 hours depending on stops
Family Friendly: Yes
Best Time to Visit: All Year
Snacks We Packed
- Seasonal fresh fruit
- Odi snacks
- Dark mint chocolate
- Salty oven-baked pretzels
- Nuts
- Water
- Live Wild Super Greens
- Live Wild Super Reds
Gear We Loved
Frankie wore Icebreaker merino hiking socks paired with her new The North Face hiking boots and waterproof jacket. Alongside Kathmandu hiking pants and merino base layers.
Not a single blister all day, despite the new hiking boots.
What We Learned
Wild places have a way of putting things back into perspective. The mountain doesn't care who you are, what you do for work or how many emails are waiting for you. It simply asks you to put one foot in front of the other.
Sometimes that's exactly what we need.
Into The Wild: A Hike Up Parihaka Mountain
Comment (1)
Absolutely amazing show stopping incredible also very beautiful view out there 👍👍